Food Tales

A Chef's Tour of San Francisco, Marin, and Sonoma

by Daniel Holzman
When dinner is the point of the trip, the cooks count. Photo courtesy of The Slanted Door.

Daniel Holzman, the chef and co-owner of in New York City, spent six years cooking at some of San Francisco's best restaurants. If you were his best friend and wanted his advice on a baller-style Bay Area food tour, it would look like this.

SAN FRANCISCO – Start your Bay Area food tour with two nights in San Francisco. Go to and for the two dinners and have lunch at in Berkeley. Or else dinner at Chez Panisse and lunch at the Slanted Door. I like to stay at . It's expensive, but the beds are really comfy and it's right in the center of Union Square.

Legion of Honor

Legion of Honor. Photo: Steve Whittaker / courtesy of FAMSF

is a great museum in a beautiful setting. After seeing the exhibitions, follow one of the many hiking trails from the museum on an easy, two-mile hike down to the beach under the Golden Gate Bridge. (This was all US Army land that has recently been returned to the city.) The other museum I love is in . The museum has great stuff, and the building itself is also worth checking out. Don't miss the observation deck. For a fun touristy attraction, do the night tour at . It's actually fun.

If you are in North Beach (though I would avoid it; it's very touristy) check out . It's cool if you're in the area, but it's not worth a special trip.


Point Reyes Lighthouse

Point Reyes Lighthouse. Photo: / Flickr

NORTH THRU HIPPIE TOWNS

Once out of the city, head north over the Golden Gate Bridge and spend the first night and a day exploring Bolinas, a very cool, peaceful, old hippie town. The locals take down the signs from the highway so tourists can't find it. They also put up a "shark danger" sign at the beach to scare tourists away from their surfing area: Feel free to ignore it. Check into the Grand Hotel (15 Brighton Ave. Bolinas; +1-415-868-1757) — which is not very grand; there are only two rooms. Have a drink at the bar in town, , the oldest continually operating bar in the United States. It never closed during Prohibition.

Continue up the coast to Point Reyes Station and check into . This area is spectacularly gorgeous — the most beautiful place I've ever been. Drive out to , the westernmost point of the United States. The lighthouse is old, extremely windy, and extremely beautiful. (Don't underestimate the steps.) For a good lunch in the area, hit Tomales Bay Foods (80 4th St., Point Reyes Station; +1-415-663-9335). The next day, keep going up the coast, definitely stopping for oysters in Marshall. offers reservations well in advance and sells out. It's shuck-your-own.

Marshall Store

Photo courtesy of

If you can't get a reservation or aren't up for shucking, stop up the street at , have a seat on the side of the highway, and eat oysters harvested from the bay you are looking out on. In fact, even if you have already eaten, you should stop and have an oyster here. Spend the night at the 100-year-old in Jenner by the Sea. You'll get a cottage, reasonable rates, tons of character, and a great romantic spot.


Cobb Winery

Photo courtesy of

SOUTH THRU SONOMA

Head back down inland through Sonoma wine country. (Napa is a tourist trap.) Stop at a winery for a look around and a glass of wine. I especially like in Sebastopol, in Petaluma, in Healdsburg, and in Occidental.

Cowgirl Creamery

You'll want to taste everything at Cowgirl Creamery. Photo: / Flickr

Have lunch in Healdsburg at . It's very fancy. I worked with the chef Doug Keane at Jardiniere a million years ago. Stop in Petaluma and Santa Rosa for a visit. In Petaluma, tour . They make great cheese.

In Sonoma, call ahead and book a visit at to browse their inventory. It's incredibly cool to see all the wine in boxes and to shop for a special bottle to share later at your hotel. ( in Forestville is pretty special.) For dinner, go to or .

MAP IT

(GoogleMaps).

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